Katherine Purcell, the joint managing director of London antique dealer Wartski, highlights the influence of Japan on 19th-century jewellery. She holds a vividly colored pendant locket by Alexis Falize, dated around 1869. This gold piece features cloisonné enamelling, a technique Falize borrowed from Japanese decorative arts. Purcell notes that Falize was inspired by Japanese printmakers such as Hokusai, whose works had recently reached Europe, particularly for depictions of birds.
The locket is part of Wartski’s collection at the Treasure House Fair, opening at the Royal Hospital Chelsea in London on June 27. The event will showcase antique jewels with Japanese influences, alongside modern Japanese jewellery. Fair director Thomas Woodham-Smith notes a growing interest in both Japanese antiquities and contemporary art.
Meanwhile, Tiffany & Co is exploring its relationship with Japan through the exhibition “Tiffany Wonder” at Tokyo Node gallery until June 23. This follows “Van Cleef & Arpels and Japan: an artistic encounter” in Paris, which showcased 33 pieces created between 1923 and 2023, highlighting Japan’s lasting influence on the French jeweller’s designs.
The interest in Japanese art began with the Treaty of Kanagawa in 1854, which ended Japan’s isolation and reopened trade with the West. Japanese artifacts, including Edo period woodblock prints, began flowing into Europe, inspiring artists like Vincent van Gogh. The 1862 London International Exhibition and the 1867 Exposition Universelle in Paris, where Japan presented its own works, further fueled the craze for Japanese art. Philippe Burty coined the term “Japonisme” in 1872 to describe this fascination.
Jewellers quickly embraced Japanese techniques, materials, and motifs. Tiffany & Co’s 1876 necklace, part of its current exhibition, features Japanese-inspired avian and floral designs. Other jewellers, like René Lalique and Carl Fabergé, also drew from Japanese art. Fabergé’s creations were inspired by netsuke, small carved toggles used in traditional Japanese dress, which are being displayed by London’s Grace Tsumugi gallery at the Treasure House Fair. Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels also incorporated Japanese motifs into their designs in the 1920s.
Kristian Spofforth, head of the jewellery department at Sotheby’s London, compares the resurgence of Japanese influence in the Art Deco period to the revival of Egyptomania after the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb. He attributes the appeal of Japanese-inspired designs to their simplicity and order, which he believes bring a sense of peace.
Contemporary jewellers continue to look to Japan for inspiration. Van Cleef & Arpels collaborates with Japanese artist Junichi Hakose on lacquered butterfly clips. British designer Natasha Wightman’s debut collection, “Ravens,” was influenced by netsuke, with intricate designs reflecting the fluid movement of wild ravens. Stone and wood carver Graham Heeley crafted these pieces, capturing every feather and claw.
Grace Tsumugi’s founder, Tsumugi Shoji, notes that traditional Japanese jewellery, such as necklaces, bracelets, and earrings, were adopted from the West during the Edo period. Didier Haspeslagh, director of London gallery Didier Ltd, which specializes in late 20th-century jewellery, says Japanese contemporary jewellers emerged with distinctive styles in the 1980s. These pieces, often delicate and minimalist, attract international buyers.
Wahei Aoyama, founder of Tokyo gallery A Lighthouse called Kanata, observes that Japan’s market for contemporary jewellery is limited, with consumers preferring established brands. However, jewellery by Kazumi Nagano, who weaves precious metal or linen paper threads with nylon, is admired for its natural silhouettes, reflecting a Japanese aesthetic tied to the Shinto worship of nature.
Kent-based Japanese jeweller Kayo Saito finds inspiration in the simplified, stylized nature portrayed by Edo Rinpa artists. She notes increased interest in Japanese jewellery in Europe, attributing it to Japanese designers studying and working there due to limited educational opportunities in Japan.
Key Points
- Katherine Purcell of Wartski highlights Japanese influence on a 19th-century pendant by Alexis Falize.
- Treasure House Fair in London showcases antique and contemporary Japanese-inspired jewellery.
- Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels exhibitions emphasize Japan’s influence on their designs.
- The Treaty of Kanagawa in 1854 reopened Japan to Western trade, sparking interest in Japanese art.
- Major exhibitions in the 1860s popularized Japanese art in Europe.
- Contemporary jewellers continue to draw inspiration from Japanese art and design.