The Andalusi Legacy has opened a new exhibition titled ‘Amazigh Jewellery: Identity of the Berber Peoples’ at the Corral del Carbón. This collection, curated by Spanish diplomat Jorge Dezcallar de Mazarredo, features around 200 pieces of jewellery from Libya, Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco.
The exhibition showcases jewellery that holds deep cultural and historical significance for the Amazigh people, also known as Berbers, who inhabit North Africa from the Siwa oasis to the Atlantic, and from the Mediterranean to the Niger Basin. Despite centuries of history and the Arab conquest, the Amazigh have preserved their distinct identity and customs.
For the Amazigh, jewellery serves not only as adornment but also as a means of expressing identity. The exhibition displays various items such as diadems, headbands, pendants, earrings, necklaces, pectorals, fibulae, amulets, and bracelets, predominantly worn by women. These artefacts illustrate the long-standing cultural interactions between the Amazigh and other Mediterranean and sub-Saharan African peoples, including significant historical ties with the Iberian Peninsula during the Andalusian era.
According to Jorge Dezcallar de Mazarredo, former Spanish ambassador and collector, Amazigh jewellery is rich in symbolism, indicating the wearer’s tribal affiliation, geographical origin, social status, marital status, and even personal milestones like childbirth. Beyond ornamentation, these jewels also hold economic value, symbolizing a woman’s wealth and independence in Berber society.
The exhibition delves into Amazigh beliefs and customs, revealing how these jewels were used for protection and to attract good fortune. Despite their historical and cultural significance, traditional Amazigh jewellery is now primarily reserved for special occasions like weddings and celebrations, marking a shift away from daily use and reflecting broader cultural changes.
Accompanying the jewellery are nine paintings by Jesús Conde Ayala, inspired by the exhibition pieces, along with a Berber tapestry loaned from the Secret Berbère Gallery. Additionally, a comprehensive 348-page catalogue, authored by leading experts such as Helena de Felipe from the University of Alcalá, Bilal Sarr from the University of Granada, and Cynthia Becker from Boston University, provides further insights into Amazigh jewellery and culture.