Enamelling, one of history’s most expressive decorative arts dating back to the 13th century BC, continues to evolve with boundary-pushing designs. This craft, involving melting powdered glass onto metal, requires expertise across various disciplines like miniature painting and goldsmithing, alongside a deep understanding of color.
Artisans predominantly use the grand feu enamelling technique in both jewellery and watchmaking. This method involves applying powdered silica onto a surface and firing it at high temperatures multiple times, demanding precise control to achieve a glossy finish.
Recent innovations highlight enamelling’s versatility. De Beers incorporated grand feu enamelling in its Metamorphosis collection, enhancing pieces with fiery red and orange hues against rose gold, setting off diamonds with an autumnal glow. Similarly, Buccellati utilized enamel alongside agate and mother-of-pearl in its Opera Tulle collection, creating vibrant red shades that complemented intricate gold lace motifs.
Other techniques like champlevé and cloisonné offer contrasting effects by combining engraving with colorful enamelling. In watchmaking, flinqué involves layering translucent enamel over guilloché plates to enhance underlying colors.
Cartier’s Panthère de Cartier collection exemplifies mastery in both jewellery and watchmaking, featuring bracelets with black enamel spots resembling a panther’s pattern. Meanwhile, Rolex embraced enamelling for its Oyster Perpetual Jigsaw Day-Date 36, employing champlevé enamelling to craft a playful, emoji-themed dial.
Van Cleef & Arpels introduced new enamelling techniques at Watches and Wonders, pushing boundaries with the Poetic Complications series. This commitment to innovation is echoed by Nicholas Bos, who stresses the importance of evolving traditional techniques while meeting modern industry standards.
Van Cleef & Arpels showcased its façonné enamel technique in the Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté watch, part of the Extraordinary Dials collection. This approach involves shaping enamel into intricate, three-dimensional forms set with diamonds, demonstrating a blend of artistry and technical finesse.
Enamelling in 2024 continues to be a cornerstone of artistic expression in jewellery and watchmaking, with designers exploring new frontiers while honoring centuries-old craftsmanship.