Boucheron, like many jewelry houses, often draws inspiration from nature. However, under the direction of Claire Choisne since 2011, the approach has been unconventional. The latest high jewelry collection by Boucheron is inspired by water, a challenging and expansive theme.
Exploring Iceland for Inspiration
Choisne knew she wanted to showcase the beauty of water but aimed for a unique representation. In April 2022, she embarked on a ten-day research trip to Iceland. “Maybe I should have chosen the Maldives or the Seychelles,” she joked, “but it wasn’t the kind of water I wanted to represent. It was too cute, too blue and too sunny.”
The Or Bleu Collection
The Or Bleu collection consists of 26 pieces characterized by chunky forms, a moody black-and-white palette, and unusual materials. One of the top inspirations was Diamond Beach with its black volcanic sand and ice fragments. This contrast influenced the collection’s monochrome coloring, especially in the Black Beach necklace. “I loved the contrast between the shiny white ice and the black sand,” Choisne said. Mimicking the water and ice with diamonds was straightforward, but replicating the black sand was a challenge. Boucheron’s innovation team figured out how to bind the sand with a polymer and spray it layer by layer to create a 3D shape. The resulting torque necklace and earrings feature a startling matt black with a velveteen texture.
Incorporating Unconventional Materials
The collection also includes the Eau d’Encre bracelet made from black obsidian, a natural volcanic glass found in abundance in Iceland. This material, along with black and white veined marble, titanium, and cloudy white jade, is used in a set of rings. One standout pair of shoulder brooches, designed to resemble water cascading over shoulders, uses aluminium coated in chromium for a lightweight and shiny finish.
Rock Crystal and Heritage Inspirations
Boucheron’s signature use of carved rock crystal fits seamlessly into the Or Bleu collection. The Ice Cave bracelet features polished and shiny rock crystal, mimicking Iceland’s soaring cave interiors. The Iceberg necklace uses matt, “frosted” rock crystal, carved to mimic unpolished diamonds as if they have been frozen.
In the Ondes set of two rings and a statement necklace, Choisne aimed to emulate water droplets radiating on the surface. This piece took over 5,000 hours to create, the most time-consuming project since Choisne joined Boucheron. A software called Blender was used to simulate realistic water movement and patterns before craftsmen carved the crystal and set diamonds underneath. Both rings are designed to be worn together, creating the effect of “rain falling on your hand.”
Homage to Boucheron’s Heritage
Despite the innovative materials, Boucheron’s heritage remains evident. The Vague earring draws inspiration from a 1910 tiara based on Hokusai’s wave. A cascading diamond Flots brooch was inspired by a 1901 comb. The Or Bleu necklace, the only piece in the collection using color, features hexagonal aquamarines found by Choisne at the Tucson Gem Fair in Arizona. “I started with the stones, when usually I would start with the design — these were just too amazing to turn down.”
A Love for Iceland’s Landscape
Reflecting on her trip to Iceland, Choisne said, “It was really different and I loved it. It wasn’t easy — at times it was minus 20C outside — but I fell in love with it and all the powerful, strong variations of water that we saw.” The resulting collection of impactful and original jewels certainly showcases this love and inspiration.