Hermès has once again pushed the boundaries of luxury with its latest High Jewellery collection, “Les Formes de la couleur,” which seamlessly blends artistry, heritage, and innovation. Presented by Pierre Hardy, the Creative Director of Hermès Jewelry, the collection is a multifaceted exploration of the intersection between colour, form, and craftsmanship. This collection promises to be a pivotal moment in the future of luxury, offering a glimpse into the evolving relationship between jewellery design and the perception of colour.
A Bold Vision: Colour Meets Form
Pierre Hardy’s creative direction for “Les Formes de la couleur” is centered on an exploration of colour through shapes. “This collection expresses colour in shapes. I wanted to find a way to express this fundamental phenomenon—of colour, at Hermès—and build a strong, autonomous and independent identity,” Hardy explained in a statement. The collection, through its bold use of volume and form, seeks to redefine the boundaries of jewellery design and challenge the traditional conventions of colour in haute bijouterie.
This new collection is an experiment in the perception of light, with Hardy exploring the relationship between colour and shape. “Les Formes de la couleur” is not just a display of stones; it’s a dynamic and radiant journey that challenges the viewer to rethink the way colour can be experienced, from subtle gradients to bold geometric contrasts.
A Journey Through Colour: The Chapters of the Collection
“Les Formes de la couleur” is structured as a vibrant odyssey, broken down into distinct chapters that define different interpretations of colour in jewellery. Each chapter presents a unique approach to colour, using precious stones, innovative techniques, and abstract forms to convey emotions and narratives. These chapters explore the essence of colour, its relationship to light, and how it can be molded into striking and unexpected shapes.
“Portraits de la couleur”: Resonance Between Colours and Shapes
The first chapter, Portraits de la couleur, is inspired by the concept of resonance between colours and geometric shapes. Hardy uses this notion to illustrate the surprising associations that can be made through jewellery. The pieces in this chapter feature rings that combine contrasting colours and shapes, such as a ruby red square, a yellow beryl triangle, and a blue sapphire circle. Together, these shapes form a sophisticated structure, where each piece seems to create harmony through the unexpected.
The use of geometry in these rings highlights Hardy’s approach of allowing the colours to speak for themselves, creating a powerful visual language that draws attention to the unique qualities of each stone. This chapter evokes a sense of balance and unity, where colour and shape exist in perfect resonance.
“Fresh Paint”: A Monochromatic Play on Colour
The Fresh Paint chapter takes a different direction by focusing on monochromatic colour schemes that are both striking and subtle. By arranging precious and semi-precious stones in intricate patterns, Hardy creates the illusion of a painted surface, where deep and nuanced arabesques of colour flow seamlessly across the jewellery. The careful placement of each stone results in textures that seem to shift and move, reflecting light in mesmerizing ways.
The collection uses immaculate jewelling techniques to present an abstract mirage of volume, offering a tactile, almost painterly effect. This chapter exemplifies Hardy’s desire to push the boundaries of traditional jewellery design, treating each piece as a work of art rather than just an ornament.
“Arc en couleurs”: Curves and Colours in Motion
In the Arc en couleurs chapter, Hardy takes a more organic approach, with pieces that reflect the natural curves of the body. These supple, undulating shapes evoke a sense of fluidity, using soft colours to create a reverie-like effect. The articulated bracelets and necklaces in this chapter demonstrate Hardy’s technical prowess, with meshwork designs that feature close to 1,400 stones to create a colour gradient in the necklace. The result is an undulating effect where colours transition seamlessly from one hue to the next, offering a sense of movement within the stillness of the jewellery.
The play of light and shadow, combined with the graceful curves of the designs, creates a delicate yet powerful visual language that resonates with a sense of freedom and elegance.
“Hermès Diaprés”: The Soft Brilliance of Colour
The Hermès Diaprés chapter features a collection of rings, bracelets, and necklaces that showcase soft, coloured brilliance. The centre stones radiate a gentle glow, illuminated by an architectural motif of iridescent mother-of-pearl. The design is complemented by baguette-cut coloured stones and diamonds, creating a harmonious blend of textures and tones. The resulting pieces exude a quiet, refined beauty, highlighting Hardy’s ability to play with light and colour in a sophisticated way.
These pieces reflect the Maison’s commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail, with each element designed to complement the others, resulting in an ensemble that feels both timeless and contemporary.
“Supracolor”: A Hypnotic Dance of Light and Colour
The Supracolor chapter showcases some of the most hypnotic and architectural pieces of the collection. By using rutilated quartz and dazzling triangle-cut diamonds, Hardy explores the diffraction of light waves, creating a visual effect that transitions from black to white, with rays of prismatic colour appearing to radiate from the centre of each piece. The jewellery in this chapter plays with the very nature of light, refracting and reflecting in ways that seem to challenge the boundaries of traditional design.
The result is a collection of pieces that feel both modern and ethereal, where light itself becomes a key component in the jewellery’s identity.
“Color Vibes” and “Colour Flash”: A Play of Shapes and Digital Inspiration
The final chapters, Color Vibes and Colour Flash, push the boundaries of colour and form even further. Color Vibes presents rounded, asymmetrical shapes that are paired with classically cut precious stones, creating a fusion of modernity and tradition. Meanwhile, Colour Flash features highly geometric pieces that resemble pixelated digital images, creating a striking contrast with the softer, more fluid designs in earlier chapters.
These chapters offer a bold and unexpected twist, proving that the future of jewellery design is just as much about innovation as it is about craftsmanship. By blending different forms and colours, Hardy captures the essence of contemporary luxury, where the past and future coexist in a perfect balance.
A Unique Approach Rooted in Heritage
In designing Les Formes de la couleur, Hardy draws upon Hermès’ rich heritage as a harness-maker and saddler. The Maison’s roots in craftsmanship are evident throughout the collection, with each piece reflecting a deep understanding of form, function, and beauty. Hardy’s approach to colour, however, marks a departure from the House’s more traditional designs, as he embraces a freedom that allows for a more abstract and artistic interpretation of jewellery.
Hardy’s background in art and his re-immersion in colour theories allowed him to merge the theoretical with the ornamental. He sought to explore the dynamic relationship between two-dimensional and three-dimensional designs, creating a visual vocabulary that is entirely unique to Hermès.
Conclusion: A Visionary Exploration of Colour and Craftsmanship
“Les Formes de la couleur” is not just a collection of jewellery—it is a visionary exploration of colour, shape, and light. Pierre Hardy’s creative genius is evident in every piece, from the geometric forms of Portraits de la couleur to the ethereal light effects in Supracolor. Each chapter offers a unique perspective on the relationship between colour and jewellery design, creating a collection that is both innovative and timeless.
With Les Formes de la couleur, Hermès continues to redefine the future of luxury jewellery, blending heritage with modern artistry in a way that only the House can.
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