Pomellato, the renowned luxury jewelry brand founded by Pino Rabolini in 1967, is marking its 60th anniversary with its first-ever retrospective. The exhibition, Art & Jewelry: Pomellato’s Legacy of Creativity and Craftsmanship, From 1967 to Today, opened at Shanghai’s Fosun Art Foundation on November 3, 2024. This landmark showcase offers an immersive look into the brand’s six decades of pioneering design, cultural influence, and craftsmanship.
Pomellato’s unique approach to fine jewelry has made it one of the most influential houses in the industry. With its signature use of rich rose gold and vibrant colored gems, Pomellato has created timeless pieces like the Nudo ring, a cult favorite worn by cultural icons. Now, the brand is inviting visitors to explore its storied past through more than 100 pieces of jewelry, rare archival campaigns, and a curated experience that spans generations of creativity and artistic evolution.
From Tradition to Innovation: The Birth of Pomellato
Pino Rabolini, hailing from a family of goldsmiths, revolutionized the jewelry industry when he broke from tradition in the late 1960s. While other jewelers were focused on classic designs, Rabolini believed that a playful, prêt-à-porter approach could transform the staid world of fine art jewelry. His bold vision proved correct as Pomellato became known for its vibrant, colorful designs that combined craftsmanship with a sense of freedom and fun.
Under Rabolini’s leadership, Pomellato attracted a loyal following of high-profile clients, from celebrities to aristocrats. The brand’s innovative designs, particularly in its use of unusual gemstones and artistic settings, redefined what luxury jewelry could be. Pomellato’s signature style, typified by the Nudo ring, a simple yet bold design that became an international sensation, captured the imagination of the public. Today, the brand continues to embrace Rabolini’s avant-garde spirit, experimenting with modern technologies, such as artificial intelligence, while honoring the timeless silhouettes that have become iconic.
A Glimpse into Pomellato’s Evolution
The Art & Jewelry exhibition offers an unprecedented look at Pomellato’s legacy, starting with the early days of the brand. Upon entering the exhibition, visitors are greeted by Italian photographer Gian Paolo Barbieri’s iconic 1971 photograph of actress Lilly Bistrattin, wearing the brand’s signature Wave Collection. The image sets the tone for the exhibit, introducing Pomellato’s playful, dynamic designs that became synonymous with the brand’s identity.
The exhibition is divided into thematic sections, each reflecting a different decade in Pomellato’s history. It begins with a tribute to Milan, the birthplace of the brand, and continues with an exploration of the design aesthetics of the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s. Each section captures the essence of the era it represents, offering visitors a chance to see how Pomellato’s designs evolved in response to shifting cultural movements.
The 1970s section highlights the era’s bold, free-spirited aesthetic through Pomellato’s innovative chain designs, which were daring and highly creative. The 1980s showcase is characterized by vibrant hues and audacious shapes, embodying the period’s larger-than-life attitude. The 1990s section takes a feminist turn, reflecting the influence of third-wave feminism on Pomellato’s designs. Sculptural volumes and generous forms became key elements of jewelry design, as women’s empowerment and self-expression took center stage.
A Forward-Looking Finale: Pomellato’s Future and AI Innovations
The retrospective culminates in a forward-looking exploration of Pomellato’s future, with a special focus on the brand’s latest design collection, Iconica. This section also highlights Pomellato’s exploration of new technologies, such as artificial intelligence, to create a dialogue between traditional craftsmanship and futuristic innovation.
Chinese artist Chen Man, known for her striking photographs of stars like Grimes, lends her vision to the exhibit through her collaboration with Pomellato. Chen’s photographs capture the expansive ideas surrounding femininity and empowerment that are central to the brand’s new Iconica collection. The AI aspect of the exhibition, in collaboration with Milanese artist Alberto Maria Colombo and fellow artist Anna Paladini, explores how technology can represent the multifaceted nature of Pomellato’s “timeless women.” Through AI-generated portraits, the exhibition underscores the ways in which Pomellato continues to push boundaries in both design and technology.
A Gala for the Ages: Star-Studded Event Celebrates Pomellato’s Legacy
The exhibition’s opening night was marked by a glamorous gala, bringing together fashion and entertainment icons to celebrate Pomellato’s storied history and ongoing influence. Guests at the exclusive event included Hong Kong actress Janice Man, Winter Olympics champion Yang Yang, and fashion columnist Teresa Cheung, who joined the brand in honoring its artistic and cultural contributions.
The evening also featured performances by acclaimed pianist Wu Muye and the Shanghai Theater Academy, further elevating the celebratory atmosphere. This star-studded event highlighted the ongoing relevance of Pomellato in the world of luxury, where the brand continues to attract a diverse, global following.
Curated by Jewelry Design Expert Alba Cappellieri
The Art & Jewelry exhibition was curated by Alba Cappellieri, a renowned professor of jewelry design at the Polytechnic University of Milan. Cappellieri’s expert curation allowed for a seamless journey through Pomellato’s rich history, showcasing the creativity, craftsmanship, and innovative spirit that the brand is known for. With a careful selection of over 100 jewels, the exhibition not only honors Pomellato’s legacy but also presents the brand’s future as an exciting continuation of its founder’s vision.
“We are thrilled to share our passion, craftsmanship, and joyful spirit through this beautifully curated exhibition, inspiring a new audience to embrace our jewels as empowering statements of personal style,” said Sabina Belli, CEO of Pomellato Group. The retrospective, she added, is designed to appeal not only to the brand’s longtime fans but also to a new generation of jewelry enthusiasts who can connect with Pomellato’s evolving narrative.
Pomellato: A Legacy of Creativity and Craftsmanship
As Pomellato celebrates its 60th anniversary, the Art & Jewelry retrospective in Shanghai serves as both a tribute to the brand’s remarkable journey and a preview of its future innovations. From its early days as an avant-garde disruptor in Milan to its ongoing exploration of artificial intelligence, Pomellato remains committed to its founder’s original vision: to create jewelry that is both beautiful and meaningful, a true expression of individual style and creativity.
With its timeless designs, commitment to craftsmanship, and willingness to embrace new ideas, Pomellato has carved out a unique place in the world of luxury jewelry. This first retrospective not only honors the brand’s past but also sets the stage for the next chapter in Pomellato’s evolution. As the brand continues to innovate and inspire, its legacy of creativity and craftsmanship will undoubtedly endure for decades to come.
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