Rome has been bustling with activity this past week as blacked-out cars shuttle between chic hotels and the historic Terme di Diocleziano. The reason? Bulgari’s Aeterna collection launch.
The iconic Italian jeweler transformed the ancient Roman baths, first opened in 306 AD, to showcase its latest high jewelry and watch collection, Aeterna. Released in the brand’s 140th anniversary year, Aeterna pays homage to Rome. The pieces reflect the city’s rich history, from its monumental tiles to the emperors who once ruled and the dawn light that graces its streets.
Aeterna is Bulgari’s most extravagant high jewelry collection to date. According to CEO Jean-Christophe Babin, the brand’s wealthy clients remain unaffected by global financial instability. In his makeshift office at the Terme di Diocleziano, Babin displayed illustrations of key pieces. “We are not afraid to propose more millionaire pieces than ever,” he said. About 100 jewels in the adjacent hall, once a grand entrance for 3,000 Roman bathers, are priced over €1 million.
The collection’s highlight is the Serpenti Aeterna diamond necklace, priced at €40 million. It features seven pear-shaped diamonds totaling 140 carats, symbolizing Bulgari’s 140 years. The diamonds, cut from a single rough stone of over 200 carats sourced from Lesotho, are set in a serpentine design of baguette-cut diamonds.
The carat weight was deliberately chosen. At the Aeterna catwalk and gala dinner, Babin shared that the rough stone could have yielded an extra 10 carats. However, he opted not to use them to maintain the symbolic 140 carats. Those 10 carats will likely appear in another Bulgari piece.
The Serpenti Aeterna necklace is notable for its colorless diamonds, a departure from Bulgari’s usual vibrant gemstones. The rest of the collection, however, stays true to Bulgari’s signature style.
The Terra Mater Serpenti necklace, worn by Zendaya in campaign shots, features a diamond and emerald snake coiled around a large cabochon emerald. The Bvlgari Lotus Cabochon necklace is a bib of turquoise, emerald, rubellite, and amethyst cabochons in the maison’s tappetino setting, giving the stones a pebble-like appearance.
High jewelry watches are a significant part of Aeterna. These range from simple dials hidden within Serpenti mouths to elaborate pieces that are more jewel than watch. The Fuochi D’Artificio cuff watch recreates fireworks in the night sky with a burst of precious gems atop black onyx. Its smaller counterpart, the Fuochi D’Artificio Petite, mimics the night sky with aventurine inserts.
The Fenice watch, which took over 3,000 hours to craft, uses pink and purple sapphires, amethysts, rubies, pink garnets, tanzanites, iolites, aquamarines, and diamonds to create a phoenix inspired by Bernini’s altarpiece in Santa Maria della Vittoria. A tiny dial, featuring Bulgari’s Piccolissimo movement, hides beneath a 9.78-carat Paraiba tourmaline.
“We love to own this field,” says Antoine Pin, managing director of Bulgari’s watch division. “There are a handful of brands that can do it, but very few dare to go that far.”
In its 140th year, Bulgari continues to embody the bold spirit of Rome, showcasing its most lavish collection yet. The Aeterna collection reinforces Bulgari’s reputation for daring and exquisite design.