Platinum is making a strong comeback in the world of luxury jewelry. Known for its icy color, which lies between white and silver, and its light-reflecting sheen, this precious metal is once again gaining popularity.
In Swiss watchmaking, platinum is at the forefront of new designs. Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications Ref. 5236P-010 features an opaline rose-gilt dial and a hand-polished platinum case with a single white diamond. Omega’s Seamaster 300 combines a platinum case with a deep green malachite dial and a ceramic bezel.
Rolex introduced a platinum model at the Watches & Wonders fair this year. The 1908 model has an ice-blue dial with a Rice-Grain motif created through Guilloché engraving. Vacheron Constantin also debuted a platinum timepiece limited to 50 pieces worldwide. Their Collection Excellence Platine Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph features a 42.5mm platinum case, dial, and buckles, with platinum thread stitching on the midnight blue strap.
“Platinum exudes understated luxury,” says Lorenzo Maillard from Heist-out. Since the 1920s, it has been the choice for high-end pieces due to its ease of diamond-setting and unique hue. Brands like Cartier and Patek Philippe have long embraced platinum for exclusive watch designs.
Cartier continues to innovate with platinum. Last year, they introduced a platinum version of the Tank Normale watch. This year, the Tortue watch, named after the French word for tortoise, was modeled from platinum, maintaining its organic shape.
Jewelry designers worldwide are also embracing platinum. Brent Neale Winston from New York released platinum bracelets, rings, and pendant necklaces set with round-cut diamonds. “Platinum’s charm is its durability and strength,” she says. “Its weightiness is something I prefer in jewelry.”
Francesca Amfitheatrof’s high jewelry collection for Louis Vuitton uses platinum. The collection, Awakened Hands, Awakened Minds, includes unique pieces like the Frequence and Optimisme necklace. Chanel’s new Sport collection and Van Cleef & Arpels also feature platinum, with white diamonds enhancing their designs.
Platinum and white diamonds are a striking combination. This pairing is explored by independent designers like Jessie Thomas, Liv Luttrell, and Rachel Boston, as well as renowned brands like Tiffany & Co., Repossi, and Lugano. Tasaki pairs platinum with milky white pearls.
Rachel Boston creates rings and other pieces from recycled platinum. “Platinum can be recycled without losing quality,” she explains. “We use recycled platinum or metal from heirloom pieces instead of newly mined material. Platinum is wonderful to work with, especially for fine jewelry due to its cool tones and durable properties.”
In summary, platinum is the precious metal to add to your jewelry collection now. Its unique color, durability, and versatility make it a timeless choice for both watches and jewelry.